Blaine Wines
Winemaker Derek Flegal established the Blaine label in 2018 along with Matt Flegal and Jeremy Lathan. Derek has worked at wineries including Outpost and Jericho Canyon, and Blaine sources fruit from Sonoma County to Santa Barbara County. Derek poured me his wines at the tasting, and two in particular stood out to me. The 2022 Santa Lucia Highlands Riesling, fermented in stainless steel and aged in a neutral puncheon, displayed stone fruit, flowers, and a petrol note, with fine texture and zippy acidity. The 2018 June Mountain Vineyard Nebbiolo from Sonoma County, aged for three years in a neutral puncheon, had floral aromas along with subtle red fruit and earth, medium body with good balance and plenty of structure.
Calstar Cellars
Vintner Rick Davis has made wine for a number of well-known producers including Flowers, Londer, and Halleck – Calstar is his own label, launched in 2001. Based in Santa Rosa, Calstar makes wines from several grape varieties, sourcing much of the fruit from cooler-climate sites. From Russian River Valley, the 2022 Christina’s Vineyard Pinot Meunier was a highlight, with earthy black cherry, savory herbs, and bright acidity. The 2018 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir had ripe red cherry and herb notes with vanilla and spice undertones, medium body, and a long finish. The 2023 “Alta Zin” El Dorado County Zinfandel from Cardanini Vineyard featured ripe black cherry and wild berry fruit with spice, pepper, and brushy herb notes, medium-rich mouthfeel and moderate tannins.
Elaine Wines
Launched in 2017 by winemaker Elaine Sale, the winery focuses exclusively on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from their own Calypte Vineyard. Located on a hillside site near Forestville, the vines were planted in 1998, with one acre of Chardonnay and two of Pinot Noir. I enjoyed all of the wines that Elaine poured, and thought three were particularly noteworthy. The 2017 Calypte Vineyard Chardonnay had aromas of stone fruit, earth, and spice, with good acidity and a medium-rich texture. The 2018 Calypte Vineyard Pinot Noir featured earthy red fruit, forest floor notes, and spice, with a lively mouthfeel. The 2021 Calypte Vineyard Pinot Noir was even better, with red cherry and floral aromas plus undertones of spice and savory herbs, with a more structured character than the previous wine – this should benefit from a few years of cellaring.
Fine Disregard Wine Co.
Fine Disregard was founded in 2015 by Mike Schieffer and Kara Maraden. Mike is the assistant winemaker for Turley, while Kara is the director of viticulture for Foley Family Farms, and both have worked for other noted wineries in Napa Valley and elsewhere. I liked all four of the wines that Mike poured for me, with three favorites. From Sonoma Valley, the 2023 Bedrock Vineyard Sémillon had subtle pear, citrus, and herb notes, with a medium-rich mouthfeel plus good acidity – this should develop nicely with cellaring. The 2023 Lost Row Syrah, from Napa Valley’s Stags Leap District, showed a savory herbal character along with both red and black fruit – still somewhat tight but showing good potential, it really needs more time in bottle. The 2021 Lost Row Syrah had an even more herbal profile, along with red fruit and a touch of pepper, with medium body and good structure.
G&C Lurton Estates
G&C Lurton is a French-owned company started by Gonzague and Claire Lurton in 2012, and making wine from their organically-farmed estate vineyard in the Chalk Hill region of Sonoma County. They focus on wines from Bordeaux grape varieties. Winemaker Nicolas Vonderheyden was behind the winery table, and I particularly liked three of the wines he poured. The 2022 Estate Cabernet Franc had plummy fruit plus dried herb and earth notes, with medium body and moderate tannins. The 2021 Sonoma County Malbec, from Mounts Family Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley, displayed darker berry fruit, with spice and smoke undertones and grippier tannins. The winery’s flagship estate bottling, the 2017 “Acaibo” Trinite Estate – 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 12% Merlot – had aromas of ripe black currants and darker berry fruit, spice, and earth, medium-full bodied with plenty of structure for continued development in the cellar.
Grand Scheme Wines
With an inaugural vintage of 2022, Grand Scheme was one of the newest labels at the event. Winemaker Tom Witczak and his wife Krissy own the one-acre estate Barnhouse Vineyard in Sonoma County’s cool-climate Carneros region – all of their wines are sourced from there. Tom poured me three wines at the tasting, and I liked all of them. Aged entirely in stainless steel, the 2023 Estate Chardonnay featured green apple and citrus aromas with herbal undertones, medium-light body, and fine acidity – tasty now but could use a bit more time to round out. The 2024 Rosé of Pinot Noir had strawberry and watermelon notes with hints of flowers and herbs, and a lively mouthfeel. From Pommard 4 and 115 clones, the 2023 Estate Pinot Noir had aromas of cherry, tea leaf, earth, and spice, with good acidity and fine tannins.
Identity Wines
Identity owner/winemaker Pablo Antonio Suarez founded his label in 2018. He makes a variety of different wines, and sources fruit from sustainably-farmed vineyards ranging from Napa and Mendocino to the Sierra Foothills. Pablo was behind his winery table at the event and I particularly enjoyed two of his wines. The 2023 “The Outsider Vol. 4” Amador County Viognier displayed subtle stone fruit, citrus, and floral aromas, with medium-light body and a lively mouthfeel. The 2020 “Magnate” Mendocino County Cabernet Sauvignon came from Yorkville Highlands, and includes about 15% Cabernet Franc – this was a standout, with black currant and plum fruit plus a big dried herb component and undertones of spice and pepper, a medium-rich texture and good structure for further cellaring.
KALM Cellars
Kenny and Linda Strauss launched their KALM label with the 2023 vintage. Kenny’s parents’ small vineyard in the Calistoga area is the source of their fruit. Kenny is the winemaker, and has worked at noted wineries including Clos Pegase and Red Car. He poured two wines at the tasting and they were both standouts. The 2024 Calistoga Sauvignon Blanc featured bright grapefruit, fresh herb, and floral aromas, with medium-light weight on the palate and vibrant acidity – my favorite Sauvignon Blanc that I tasted at the event. Fermented with about 30% whole clusters, the 2023 Calistoga Petite Sirah had upfront dark berry fruit plus undertones of flowers and spice, with a fairly rich texture and plenty of structure but surprisingly refined tannins.
Kendric Vineyards
Kendric’s Stewart Johnson planted and farms his Petaluma Gap vineyard located in northern Marin County – he grows mostly Pinot Noir, plus Chardonnay, Viognier, and Syrah. His family also grows Sangiovese in Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley. The first vintage of the Kendric wines was in 2004. I got to the winery table toward the very end of the tasting, so Stewart only had time to pour me one wine, but it was a good one. The 2022 Petaluma Gap Marin County Syrah displayed black cherry and darker berry fruit plus savory herbal notes and touches of spice and smoke, with medium body and good structure for further development.
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KNA Wine
Longtime Napa Valley winemaker Kristof Nils Anderson (a co-founder of Scribe Winery) established the KNA label with his wife Jennifer in 2002. They make only Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Cabernets are aged for an extended time before release. Kristof and Jennifer were both behind their winery table – it was the last one I visited so I only had a chance to taste one wine there. The 2005 “Pella” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Star Vineyard in Rutherford featured aromas of plum and black cherry, along with lots of spice and savory dried herbs, with medium-full body – it’s very nice now but still has the structure for further cellaring.
McCarter Cellars
Owner/winemaker Dennis McCarter grew up in Sonoma County and worked as a chef for a time before eventually starting his own winery. His first commercial vintage was in 2022 – he’s sourcing fruit from Sonoma County and he makes his wines in Santa Rosa. I enjoyed all of the wines I tried at this table, and had three favorites. The 2023 Balleto Vineyard Gewürztraminer from Russian River Valley had 24 hours of skin contact prior to pressing – this had classic Gewürz lychee, citrus, and floral aromas, with medium-light body and good acidity. I tasted two vintages of rosé – I liked the new 2024 vintage and it might be the better food wine of the two, but my pick was the 2023 “Pink•ish” Rosé of Pinot Noir for its upfront red fruit, watermelon, and floral notes with a pleasant mouthfeel. The 2022 Forchini Vineyard Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley had bright red fruit with a big savory herbal component, fine texture and juicy acidity, with a long flavorful finish.
Montagne Russe Wines
Montagne Russe is the label of Kevin Berofsky, who focuses on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, sourced from cooler-climate growing regions, including the Sonoma Coast and Petaluma Gap. Kevin made his first commercial vintage in 2015. All the wines that Kevin poured me were very good and I thought that two in particular were standouts. From far northern Mendocino County, the 2021 Alder Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir displayed floral and bright red fruit aromas with touches of spice and fresh herbs, a silky texture and fine tannins. The 2021 “Dragon’s Back” Black Knight Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast was a contrast, showing a darker fruit profile along with touches of spice and flowers, and a somewhat richer, more structured character that suggest a few years in the cellar will be of benefit.
Morét-Brealynn Wines
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Owner/winemaker Morét Brealynn Chavez has worked in the California wine business since 2012, and she founded her label with the 2021 vintage. Her husband Adam Lee (Siduri, Clarice) consults with Morét on the winemaking, and the label has focused mainly on Pinot Noir. Both Morét and Adam were on hand to pour the wines. I thought one of the day’s best rosés was the 2024 Santa Lucia Highlands Rosé of Pinot Noir, which had some skin contact prior to pressing – it had bright red fruit, watermelon, and herb notes with just enough mild tannic texture to give it extra interest. The 2023 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, sourced from two vineyards, showed upfront black cherry fruit with floral undertones, medium body, and a tasty finish. The winery’s first Cab, the 2023 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, featured classic herbal aromas with black currant and darker fruit, spice, and a touch of mocha, medium-rich mouthfeel, and a structured finish – should develop nicely with cellaring.
Before I tasted the Morét-Brealynn Cabernet, Adam poured me a blend of mostly Grenache and Syrah plus a small percentage of Mourvèdre that that he and his vintner friend Sasha Verhage made in the Lirac region of southern France, the Etienne 2023 “Essen.” Although I didn’t jot down any tasting impressions on this one, I remember thinking that it was a real knockout!
Ottovino Wines
Owner/winemaker Shalini Sekhar launched her Ottavino label in 2020, and it specializes in wines from Austrian grape varieties. Shalini has worked for noted wineries including Stags Leap and Williams Selyem, and she currently consults for several other wineries. Shalini was behind her table along with associate winemaker Justin Massa. Three of the wines especially stood out for me, starting with the 2023 Alfaro Family Vineyard Grüner Veltliner from the Santa Cruz Mountains – this displayed bright citrus and apple fruit plus a touch of the variety’s characteristic pepper, with vibrant acidity. The 2023 Ferrington Vineyard Chardonnay from Anderson Valley had pear and stone fruit aromas with undertones of oak, and medium weight on the palate. From a cool site in Carneros, the 2022 Ricci Vineyard St. Laurent featured earthy and savory black cherry with good acidity and fine tannins, a non-Pinot wine that Pinot Noir fans should appreciate.
Oxlee Graham Wines
Oxlee Graham’s Jennie Murphy made her first commercial wines from the 2022 vintage. She works mainly with Pinot Noir, as well as with Chenin Blanc, Picpoul, and Petit Verdot, from sites ranging from northern Mendocino to the Santa Cruz Mountains. I enjoyed all of the wines that Jennie poured, with a few particular favorites. The 2024 “Elinor’s” Alder Springs Vineyard White Blend – 50% each Chenin Blanc and Picpoul Blanc – had citrus aromas with floral undertones and a vibrant texture. The winery’s first Pinot from the Santa Cruz Mountains, the 2023 “Ana’s” Gali Vineyard Pinot Noir featured savory herbal notes along with black cherry and tea leaf, with the structure for cellaring. The darker berry and herb character of the 2022 “Enedina’s” Fountaingrove District Petit Verdot displayed dark berry fruit and savory herbs plus hints of flowers and spice, with plenty of tannic grip for continued development.
Perlegos Family Wine Co.
The parents of Jeff and John Perlegos farmed a California vineyard so it was only natural for them to follow the tradition. They purchased the historic Stampede Vineyard in the Clements Hills AVA of eastern Lodi, and established their label in 2020. They sell fruit from there to a number of noted vintners and make some themselves. I especially liked two wines at the Perlegos table. Made with no dosage, the 2023 Clements Hills Lodi Sparkling Assyrtiko had citrus and stone fruit aromas, with zippy acidity and fine, persistent bubbles. The 2023 Stampede Vineyard Zinfandel displayed black cherry and wild berry aromas plus notes of spice and fresh herbs, and medium body – very tasty now and with good structure for mid-term cellaring.
Spur Road Wines
Sam Buckingham and Amanda Kern are the proprietors of Spur Road, which they founded in 2021. They’ve both worked for wineries all over the globe, and they make their own wines in Sonoma County. They focus almost exclusively on Pinot Noir, and farm their small estate Nozzari Vineyard in the Sebastopol Hills. I enjoyed all of the Spur Road wines with three favorites. Made in stainless steel, the 2023 Mendocino County Pinot Blanc had bright pear and stone fruit aromas, medium body, and a long finish. The 2022 Nozzari Vineyard Pinot Noir was fermented with about 40% whole clusters and aged in neutral oak – with red fruit, flower, and herb notes, it had a velvety texture with fine acidity. The 2023 Nozzari Vineyard Pinot Noir had a bit less whole-cluster fermentation, and included one new French oak barrel for aging – this displayed more subtle red fruit along with earth and herb aromas, with a bit richer texture and more tannic structure than the 2022 bottling.
Staysail Wines
Launched by winemaker Matt McDermaid in 2019, Staysail sources their fruit from sustainably-farmed vineyards in both Sonoma County and Paso Robles. In addition to his own small-production label, Matt also works at Meeker Wine in Healdsburg. Matt and his father poured the wines at the tasting. Their lone white wine was a standout, the 2022 Ceja Farm Vineyard Grenache Blanc from the Sonoma Coast – this featured green apple and fresh herb aromas plus a touch of the petrol note this variety can develop, with medium body and a long finish. The 2021 Caelesta Vineyard Grenache from the Templeton Gap region of Paso Robles was my favorite of the two Grenaches poured at this table, with notes of ripe red fruit and spice, with good structure. The 2019 Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Franc, aged entirely in neutral French oak, had herbal plum and black cherry aromas with dried herb undertones, a medium-full mouthfeel, and nicely-resolving tannins.
Theopolis Vineyards
Theodora Lee is an attorney with an estate vineyard in the Yorkville Highlands region of Mendocino County. The five-acre Petite Sirah vineyard was planted in 2003 and the first Theopolis vintage was from 2012. They also make Symphony, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and blends. Theodora was on hand to pour her wine at the tasting, and I thought two the wines I tasted were particular highlights. The 2022 Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir displayed ripe red cherry and spice with undertones of tea leaf, medium body, and a lively texture. Petite Sirah is the winery’s flagship wine, and the 2020 Estate Petite Sirah had lots of dark berry fruit, earth, flowers, and spice, with medium-full body and plenty of structure for further development in the cellar. |
