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by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

McCrea and Sierra Vista Wines - October 13, 2004
  1. Sierra Vista El Dorado Viognier (EB; 14.2%) 2003: Light gold color; very attractive/fragrant pear/appley/Viognier bit spicy/nutmeg nose; very tart bit lean/hard/tight pretty pear/Viognier slight steely/metallic flavor; med.long very tart/acid bright/pear/apple/Viognier finish; lovely/fragrant nose but a bit lean on the palate; almost Alsatian in style. $25.00
  2. McCrea Viognier Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.3%; www.McCreaCellars.com) 2003: Med.light gold color; vbery strong ripe/peachy/Viognier some minerally/smoky/pungent quite perfumed/ aromatic nose; tart very rich/lush smoky/minerally some peach/ripe/Viognier bit earthy/ minerally flavor; long rich pungent/smoky/minerally very ripe/peachy finish; quite an interesting Viognier, almost like an Alsation wine. Great price at $19.00.
  3. McCrea Roussanne Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.6%) 2003: Med.light gold color; some smoky/minerally appley/floral/honeysuckle bit spict/cinammon complex/interesting nose; soft/rich/lush very floral/honeysuckle/spicy/cinnamon bit earthy/minerally flavor; long floral/honeysuckle/apple smoky/minerally quite lush slight bitter finish; clearly a Roussanne but interesting minerality. Great price at $19.00.
  4. Sawtooth Wnry Idaho Viognier (14.5%; 23% Roussanne) 2002: Light yellow color; light smoky/ tobaccoy/toasty rather lush/floral/peachy/ripe nose; soft bright/peachy/Viognier some candied/citrusy slight tobaccoy flavor; bit short bright/citrusy/peach/Viognier bit fat finish; clearly Viognier but a bit on the fat side; very nice wine for $10.00
  5. McCrea Mourvedre Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.8%) 2002: Very dark color; bit toasty/oak strong gamey/strawberry/Grenache-like/plummy some earthy/herbal dusty/pungent very interesting nose; tart plummy/gamey bit strawberry/licorice bit tannic/hard some toasty/ smoky/oak flavor; very long plummy/licorice/gamey bit strawberry/dusty/earthy finish w/ fair tannins; needs several yrs yet; bit like a rustic Languedoc red; very interesting wine and will be interesting to see how it evolves. $25.00
  6. McCrea Counoise Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.8%) 2002: Very dark color; some earthy/ musky rather black cherry/licorice/Carignane-like light toasty/oak nose; very bright cherry/cherry cough drop/black cherry/licorice very hard/tannic dusty/Languedoc-like flavor; long very bright cherry/cough drop/licorice dusty hard/tannic finish; needs more yrs of age; lots of young Carignane-like cherry character like a young Languedoc; pretty interesting wine that may not outlast the tannins. $25.00
  7. SierraVista El Dorado Grenache (EB; 20% Syrah, 14.0%) 2003: Med.light color; very pretty cherry/strawberry/Grenache light ElDorado/earthy attractive nose; very tart/acid bright/ strawberry/Grenache/cherry light earthy flavor; very tart rather tannic light cherry/ Grenache/strawberry finish; on the light & tannic side but lots of pretty/bright Grenache fruit. $18.75
  8. McCrea Sirocco Wash State (52% Grenache, 24% Syrah, 19% Mourvedre, 5% Counoise; 14.8%) 2002: Med.dark color; deep plummy/strawberry/Grenache bit toasty/oak/pungent nose; rich some earthy/plummy bright strawberry/Grenache/strawberry soda pungent/complex bit earthy/minerally flavor; long plummy/minerally/earthy bright/deep strawberry/Grenache finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs; a deep/rich wine w/ lots of WashState terroir; a really lovely RhoneRed blend. $28.00
  9. Sierra Vista El Dorado Syrah Red Rock Ridge (EB; 14.0%; www.SierraVistaWinery.com) 2002: Dark color; strong earthy/dusty/mushroomy rather blackberry/Syrah some smoky/pungent/ oak quite interesting nose; very tart/acidic dusty/mushroomy some blackberry/Syrah bit tannic flavor; med.long earthy/mushroomy/dusty very tart good blackberry/Syrah finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs; quite an interesting wine. $25.00
  10. Mary Hill Columbia Valley Syrah (14.5%) 2001: Very dark color; bit reduced/stinky nose clears to intense blackberry/blueberry/boysenberry/black cherry/framboise slight earthy/pungent/ reduced big/ripe fruit nose; soft dusty/earthy very intense framboise/boysenberry/black- berry/Syrah slight minerally/charred/pungent/roasted bit chocolaty/licorice flavor; long intense boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah/chocolaty some pungent/roasted/smoky finish w/ light tannins; some Oz or Paso Robles intensity of fruit, some WashState dusty/pungent character, some NorthernRhone roasted/espresso character; terrific Syrah for the price. $20.00
  11. McCrea Syrah Wash State (14.8%) 2002: Very dark color; bit funky/damp cellar/herbal rather pungent/smoky slight roasted/coffee deep/intense blackberry/Syrah some earthy/dusty very interesting nose; tart very rich boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah some roasted/espresso bit earthy beautiful flavor; very long intense boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah slight herbal/ underripe strong roasted/pungent/espresso finish w/ some tannins; terrific Syrah now & should improve for several yrs; very attractively priced at $22.00.
  12. McCrea Amerique Yakima Valley Syrah (14.8%) 2002: Black color; very strong Am.oak/vanilla/ bourbon/Oz-like intense blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah very intense/extracted nose; huge/ intense blackberry/blueberry/boysenberry/Syrah/very ripe strong vanilla/bourbon/Am.oak slight licorice/chocolaty flavor; very long bit tannic/hard very Am.oak/vanilla intense ripe/boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah/licorice finish; huge/powerful Syrah w/ lots of Oz character; killer stuff. $34.00
  13. McCrea Syrah Cuvee Orleans (small % Viognier; 14.8%) 2001: Very dark/black color; some roasted/espresso/NRhone some smoky/pungent very perfumed/aromatic intense boysenberry/ blackberry/Syrah slight peppery/gamey complex nose; tart rich/perfumed blackberry/ boysenberry/Syrah bit smoky/pungent/gamey/peppery some roasted/espresso beautiful flavor; very long/lingering smoky/pungent/gamey rather roasted/espresso intense blackberry/ boysenberry finishh w/ fair tannins; needs several yrs; the most aromatic and NorthernRhone of these Syrahs; dynamite wine. $38.50
  14. McCrea Syrah Red Mtn Ciel du Cheval Vnyd (14.8%) 2002: Black color;  beautiful/intense smoky/pungent/charred some roasted/espresso/peppery bit herbal intense blackberry/Syrah beautiful complex nose; tart rich/lush very intense boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah rather toasty/pungent/smokey some roasted/espresso/Rhonish flavor; very long/lingering some tannic huge/extracted intense blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry/blueberry some smokey/pungent bit roasted/espresso/herbal/peppery finish; needs 2-8 yrs of age; more WashState & less NRhohe than the Boushey; incredible Syrah. $37.00
  15. McCrea Boushey Vnyd Syrah Yakima Valley Grand Cote Vnyd (14.8%) 2002: Black color; much more minerally bit metallic toasty/roasted/espresso/used fireworks bit funky/reduced/pungent very intense blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry complex Graillot-like nose; tart/lean/hard quite minerally/peppery/roasted/espresso intense blackberry/Syrah bit gamey complex flavor; very intense tannic minerally/peppery/espresso/roasted intense blackberry/Syrah finish; needs more age; very Graillot-like in its minerality; more NorthernRhone than the Ciel; slight funkiness/reduced character that should age out; stunning Syrah. $37.00
  16. Jaffurs Santa Barbara Cnty Thompson Vnyd Petite Sirah (15.7%) 2003: Very dark/black color; very intense blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah-like some peppery/earthy/dusty loads of intense berry fruit slight toasty/vanilla beautiful nose; very intense blackberry/peppery quite spicy/licorice light dusty/earthy some pungent/vanilla/oak flavor; very long rather tannic/ hard very spicy/peppery/blackberry/licorice bit overripe/chocolaty finish; needs much age; hard to tell this from a Syrah; incredible fruit intensity; this & the Pride are two of the best new PSs I've had in some time. $nc/$30.
Some thoughts from the Bloody Pulpit:
  1. SierraVista: Followed these wines from the very start, afore he started making Syrah. John MacCready's original passion was Cabernet and even named his street that the winery's on Cabernet Way. I think he planted Syrah sort of as an afterthought, since there wasn't much of a track record in Calif yet for great Syrah. Fortunately, John done did see the light that Rhone was where it was at in Calif and is one of Calif's pioneers in promoting Rhone varietals. Daughter Michelle is taking more&more responsibility for the winery operations I gather and the wines seem to bee getting better&better. Though I find their recent offerings to sometimes have a bit of a screechy acidity to them, they seem to be showing more&more varietal character and more brightness and less of the Eldorado/funkiness they sometimes had. The ElDorado terroir gives those wines an interesting character, almost SouthernRhone character, that makes the SierraVista (and Steve Edmund's wines from that area) rather unique in Calif. Their Viognier has always been one of my favorite wines; more leaner than most in Calif, more Julia Roberts than DollyParton in style. Good wines.
  2. McCreaWnry: I've followed Doug's wines from the very start, when he first started showing up at HdR. Probably the first WashState producer there I think. However, since I don't do much business out of WashState, I've been pretty hit or miss in trying Doug's wines, mostly trying them at HdR and RhoneRangers. They've always shown well and impressed me in those venues, though. So when the new Fall offering came out and I saw the Counoise and Mourvedre on them, never having tried those varieties from WashState; I jumped at the chance to go thru the entire lineup w/ my group. And glad that I did. In the more quiet venue of my tasting group (at least some of the time it's quiet); they wines were even more impressive than I recalled. We tasting some of these at the last HdR Seminar on WashState Syrah and I recall also being impressed. All these were terrific to killer wines.
  3. WashStateWines: Been following these wines from the very start as well with an Associated Vintners GWT many a year ago, given to me by one of its investors. That operation morphed into Columbia Wnry/David Lake some yrs ago. Of course, the Cabs and the Merlots were their first really great wines I thought. They always showed less fruit and much more terroir than similar wines from anywhere else. Alas, I often found those early ones pretty heavily bludgeoned by burnt/charred/French oak and then quit following them with the same excitement. However, when I tasted RobertGoodfriend's recent versions, I was pretty impressed with them. Time for a revisit methinks. The overpowering oak seems not to be a problem w/ their rendition of the Rhone varietals. It's oftentimes noticible, but the power of the Syrah fruit seems to stand up to the oak. And that terroir thing makes them often show much the same smoky/roasted/espresso character, in many cases, to their NorthernRhone brethern, though seldom to they show the elegance & finesse of the French versions. But my impression is that some of the greatest Syrahs in the world are coming out of WashState. A force to be reckoned with.
  4. Jaffurs PetiteSirah: This btl was a gift from Craig Jaffurs for us to try. We had first seen this wine last Spring when DaveYates tasted w/ our group and showed us a barrel sample. We were so impressed w/ it our group ordered 5 cases worth. This is a wine I've labeled the Archibald Cuvee. I've joked about how Larry would strut about and preen afore my group about his winemaking experience with Craig last year. In point of fact, his responsibility was plucking out all the earwigs from the Thompson grapes the day the came into the winery. But I can't argue that this is a wine Larry has followed from the very start...but even BEFORE the very start. That's a claim I cannot make. I plan to have an "Archibald Cuvee" stamp made up and stamp that on the labels of the wines when they arrive next Spring. That should make them especially valuable on the auction market I suspect.

    Tom Hill

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