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                   by 
                    Tom Hill 
                     
                    A 
                    self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico 
                    and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National 
                    Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale 
                    code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates 
                    locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, 
                    and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, 
                    such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and 
                    ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport 
                    fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, 
                    backpacking, mountain climbing.  
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                    Aromatic Whites - November 3, 2004 
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              -  Bonny 
                Doon Le Sophiste WTW (52% Marsanne, 48% Roussanne) Santa Cruz 
                Mountains 1989: Med.dark 
                gold color; light toasty/pungent/nutmeg/cloves/oak fragrant slight 
                hazelnutty fairly perfumed/complex nose; tart rather lush/rich 
                spicy/nutmeg/cloves bit appley/nutty/ toasted hazelnuts flavor; 
                long lush/tart complex quite spicy/nutmeg finish; a lovely/ rich 
                complex wine that's still in good shape. $24.00
 
              -  Bonny 
                Doon Le Sophiste WTW (81.25% Marsanne, 18.75% Roussanne) Santa 
                Cruz Mountains 1990: Med.gold color; rather oxidized/nutty 
                slight fusel oil quite unattractive nose; tart rather bitter fairly 
                oxidized/nutty/toasty/pungent unpleasant flavor; lots of oak and 
                pretty oxidized; DOA. $26.50
 
              -  Bonny 
                Doon LeS ophiste WTW (73% Marsanne, 27% Roussanne) Santa Cruz 
                Mountains 1991: Med. yellow gold color; attractive spicy/hazelnutty 
                slight old Riesling/waxy light toasty/ oak quite complex nose; 
                soft/rich/lush complex bit honeyed/old Riesling spicy/hazel- nutty 
                lovely/complex flavor; med.long lush hazelnutty/honey comp[lex 
                finish; good old RhoneBlanc character w/ a touch of old Riesling 
                character; lovely/complex wine. $25.30
 
              -  Bonny 
                Doon Le Sophiste (77% Marsanne, 23% Roussanne; 14.4%) Santa Cruz 
                Mountains 1992: Med.yellow color; slight SO2/used fireworks/burnt 
                gunpowder/pungent/smokey slight hazelnutty/spicy complex nose; 
                tart beautiful lush/rich very spicy/pungent/ smokey bit pencilly/oak 
                complex hazelnutty/nutmeg/spicy flavor; very long rich/tart spicy/hazelnutty 
                light pencilly/pungent/smokey quite complex finish; a beautiful 
                complex wine. $25.00
 
              -  Edmunds 
                St. John El Dorado County Pinot Grigio (14.5%) 1998: Med.yellow 
                color; attractive slight fusel oil/petrolly very floral/fragrant 
                slight smokey/pungent/earthy perfumey nose; rich/textured/oily 
                rather Alsatian/floral some smokey/pungent light earthy/ petrol 
                flavor; very long rich/textured some smokey/pungent/petrolly rather 
                floral/ fragrant finish; first Calif Pinot Grigio I've ever had 
                that displays some similarity to older Alsatian PGs; beautiful 
                amazingly good wine. $14.00
 
              -  Edmunds 
                St. John El Dorado Pinot Grigio Witters Vnyd (13%) 2002: Light 
                yellow color; lovely fragrant/citrusy/grapefruity/perfumed talc 
                some perfumed/fragrant/floral nose; tarter bit lean citrusy/perfumed 
                talc some minerally/floral slight bitter flavor; med. rather lean/earthy/tight 
                citrusy/grapefruity slight perfumed talc/floral finish; much more 
                Italian in style; bit on the tight side and needs a bit of age. 
                $19.00
 
              -  Cold 
                Heaven Santa Ynez Valley Viognier (13.5%) 1997: Light yellow 
                color; rather piney/ oxidized/metallic unattractive slight nutty/tobaccoy 
                nose; soft rather piney lean/ thin some oxidized/metallic flavor; 
                med. oxidized/nutty piney/PineSol finish; strange rather linew/thin/piney 
                wine and not at all attractive; a goner. $18.00
 
              -  Cold 
                Heaven Santa Barbara County / Sanford & Benedict Vnyd Viognier 
                (13.5%) 1996: Light yellow color; quite interesting rather 
                perfumed/spicy slight pear/Viognier bit Mosel/valve oil complex 
                nose; tart/lean quite spicy some pera/Viognier rather lean/minerally 
                light oak/tobaccoy flavor; med.long minerally/spicy light pear/Viognier 
                bit stoney/pungent/ tobaccoy finish; a rather interesting minerally 
                Chablis-like Viognier; still has Viognier varietal character present. 
                $25.00
 
              -  Edmunds 
                St. John Viognier Paso Robles Rozet Vnyd (13.9%) 2003: Pale 
                yellow color; lovely perfumed/pear/peach/Viognier rather spicy/nutmeg 
                pure Viognier nose; soft quite lush peach/pear/Viognier some spicy/nutmeg/melony 
                very ripe flavor; very long soft/fat very lush/ripe pear/peach/Viognier 
                rather spicy slight smokey/pungent finish; loads of very ripe 
                Viognier character; classic DollyParton Viognier wearing loads 
                of French whorehouse perfume. $27.00
 
              -  Alban 
                Vineyards Edna Valley Viognier (14.3%) 1997: Med.gold color; 
                very ripe/rotted apples some toasty/smokey/oak bit nutty/hazelnutty 
                some vanilla/Bourbon interesting nose; tart/lean very ripe/overripe 
                toasty/smokey/oak rather rotted apples nutty/hazelnutty flavor; 
                long overripe/rotted apples quite smoky/pungent/oak finish; rather 
                weird wine; not at all unattractive but quite strange. $22.00
 
              -  Edmunds 
                St. John blonk! Paso Robles White Wine (44% Roussanne, 37% Viognier, 
                19% Marsanne; 14.1%) 2002: Med.gold color; some toasty/smoky/pungent 
                lovely/fragrant floral/honeysuckle/perfumed very interesting nose; 
                tart bit smoky/pungent/toasty rich/ lush floral/honeysuckle rather 
                spicy flavor; long tart/lush/rich rather smoky/pungent ver floral/honeysuckle 
                finish; more oak than most EdStJ but restrained and gives the 
                wine an exotic smoky character; a steal at $14.60
 
              -  Edmunds 
                St. John Los Robles Viejos Paso Robles WhiteW ine Rozet Vnyd (13.3%; 
                39% Viognier, 33% Roussanne, 28% Marsanne) 2003: Light gold 
                color; lovely floral/honeysuckle/pear very perfumed slight stony/minerally 
                quite interesting nose; tart some honeysuckle/ floral/pear/apple 
                blossom rather hard/minerally/stony very lush/ripe some Rhonish 
                flavor; very long lush/ripe/tart floral/pear quite spicy/minerally 
                finish; lots of lush richness but a minerally Rhone-like backbone; 
                terrific Rhone-style white. $27.00
 
              -  Weingut 
                Prager GrunerVeltliner Weissenkirchen Smaragd Achleiten (13%) 
                2002: Light yellow color; very perfumed/floral/aromatic slight 
                earthy/grapey nose; very tart/hard/acid very lush/ripe bit stony/earthy 
                slight smoky/herbal floral/fruity/grapey flavor; very long/hard/acidic 
                very ripe/lush smoky/earthy stony/floral/spicy finish that goes 
                on&on; needs much age; hard & acidic but lots of richness; 
                will go 10-20 yrs. $39.00
 
              -  Luna 
                Rosa New Mexico Minbres Valley Viognier (12.8%) 2002: Med.yellow 
                color; very strong Fr.oaked/toasty/butterscotchy/caramel/tobaccoy/vanilla 
                bit perfumed/floral/pear nose; very soft/fat intense tobaccoy/charred/Fr.oak 
                slight pear/grapey flavor; med.short soft/flabby/underacid loads 
                of charred/tobaccoy/oak finish; weird stuff w/ loads & loads 
                of toasty oak; little Viognier character. $12.00
 
              -  Garretson 
                Taistelai Roussanne (14.8%) Lake Cnty 2003: Med.gold color; 
                very ripe/ overripe strong citrusy/lime/apple/peach slight volatile/EA 
                bit alcoholic nose; soft very ripe limey/citrusy peach/floral/perfumed 
                slight alcoholic/fumey slight vanilla/ oak flavor; soft/fat long 
                citrusy/lime/citron bit alcoholic very ripe/fat finish; showing 
                lots of ripe/overripe character w/ attractive lime/citrus character; 
                pretty exotic stuff. $24.00
 
              -  Domaine 
                Ogereau Anjou (14%; Sec) Vincent Ogereau/St.Lambert du Lattay 
                2003: Pale yellow color; rather chalky/stony quite perfumed/melony/CB 
                spicy lovely nose; very tart/lean quite chalky/minerally/stony 
                light melony/CB earthy fairly rich flavor; long very stony/minerally/chalky/earthy 
                some perfumed/CB/melony lean/hard finish; very classic dry Anjou 
                that will live 10-15 yrs. Great price. $14.00
 
              -  Domaine 
                Ogereau Coteaux du Layon Saint Lambert (12.5%) 2002: Light 
                gold color; lovely peachy/apricotty/botrytis bit chalky/minerally 
                some complex nose; very tart/chalky/ minerally some botrytis/peachy/apricotty 
                slightly sweet complex primary flavor; very long tart/minerally/chalky 
                some botrytis/peachy/apricotty slight CB/melony finish; very primary 
                in character and needs much time; easily 10-20 maybe 30 yrs. A 
                steal at $24.00
 
              -  Cold 
                Heaven Santa Ynez Valley/Sanford & BenedictVnyd Late Harvest 
                Viognier (15%) 1997: Deep gold bit hazy/cloudy color; intense 
                botrytis/peachy overripe/figgy complex nose; soft ripe/ overripe 
                botrytis/figgy/peachy/apricotty/pear slight cedary/pencilly bit 
                hot/volatile flavor; long sweet strong botrytis/peachy very ripe/overripe 
                slightly hot finish; lots of overripe fruit character w/ fair 
                amount of botrytis; kinda strange but interesting dessert wine; 
                no Viognier character. $21.00/hlf
 
 
            
               
                 
                  
                     
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                         More 
                          wisdom from the Bloody Pulpit:  
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                      LeSophiste: I've followed this wine from the very start. 
                      Since Randall had the first commercial plantings of "Roussanne" 
                      and this was the first comercially-available wine containing 
                      "Roussanne", I was pretty excited about them. In their youth, 
                      they were never anything to get excited about, but, since 
                      I knew that Roussanne was a good ager, I was diligent in 
                      collecting them. The grapes were grown in Randall's vnyd 
                      up in Bonny Doon in the Santa Cruz Mountains. These were 
                      those tall/heavy btls w/ the black plastic top hat in loo 
                      of a capsule. Those suckers were boogers to get off the 
                      btl, but nothing an epee guy couldn't handle. I've got probably 
                      nearly a dozen of those top hats lying around...wonder if 
                      there's a market for them?? It, of course, turned out that 
                      Randall's "Roussanne" was not true Roussanne after all but, 
                      in fact, Viognier. In their youth, I never got much of the 
                      Viognier fragrance from these wines, even at the small component 
                      level these were, but that's not too surprising. I wouldn't 
                      expect SCM Viognier to smell like ordinary Viognier anyway. 
                      I was quite amazed as to how well this tableau had aged. 
                      Except for the oxidized '90; they were all lovely fully-developed 
                      wines. I've found that SCM white wines, as a rule, age remarkably 
                      well; at least the old Ridges and Mt.Eden ones have. I can 
                      only attribute the aging of these LeSophistes to the Marsanne 
                      component.
 
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                      EdStJohn Pinot Grigio: Now here (like Gamay) is one grape 
                      that gets no respect. Leave it to SteveEdmunds to champion 
                      these Gawd-forsaken varieties....marketplace be damned!! 
                      I had already tried the '02 version and liked it a lot; 
                      maybe the best Calif PG I've had to date. I was not expecting 
                      a whole lot from the '98 version (presumably also from the 
                      WittersVnyd); in fact expected it to be shakey or gone. 
                      Surprise.... it was in wonderful condition. Maybe the best 
                      (non-Alsatian) PG I've ever had. Steve's interest in PG 
                      stems from some excellent ones from Friuli that he's had. 
                      If he can do this good with such a no-account grape; wonder 
                      what he could do with Burger or UgniBlanc or French Colombard?? 
                      Marketplace be damned, of course.
 
                    -  
                      Prices on the EdStJ wines include shipping. A bit cheaper 
                      in local markets.
 
                    -  
                      SteveEdmunds doesn't get the recognition he deserves for 
                      his white wines. Some of his older Viogniers, with some 
                      age on them, have been some of the most spectacular Calif 
                      Viogniers I've ever had.  
                      
TomHill 
                       
                     
                   
                  
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              Copyright 
              © 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved  
              No original material may be reproduced without written consent 
              Mail & Comments 
              - Grape-Nutz 
               
            
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