by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

1. Domino de Tares Godello Bierzo (14%; 100% Godello; new FrenchOak; Lot#L-002; Btl#276; www.DominioDeTares.com) 2002: Med.gold color; slight earthy/green apple light pencilly/oak rather floral/attractive slight earthy/oxidized nose; very tart/acid green apple/floral/ metallic lean/teeth-chattering acidity fairly lush/floral light pencilly/oak flavor; very long very high acidity/green apple/stony/metallic light pencilly/oak finish; needs much age; much like a Nigl GV than anything; very interesting wine though not worth the price. $38.00
2. Chehalem Willamette Vlly Oregon Pinot Gris Reserve (12.5%; pH: 3.44; TA: 0.53; RS: 0.47%; www.ChehalemWines.com) 2001: Light gold color; very strong toasted marshallows smokey/pungent some PG/grapey/floral fairly complex nose; soft very lush strong PG/floral very smokey/toasted marshmallow flavor; very long grapey/floral/PG very toasted marshmallow/ smokey finish; bit on the weird side but one of the better US PGs I've had. Gary&Charlotte's contribution.
3. Kreydenweiss Pinot Gris Lerchenberg "Les Alouettes" (13%) 2001: Med.gold color; beautiful/ fragrant/perfumed/floral/PG very aromatic nose; tart very rich/powerful floral/grapey/PG slight stoney flavor; very long dry rich/tart floral/PG very perfumed finish; a beautiful Alsatian PG at a great price; should like a long time. $22.50
4. Kreydenweiss Pinot Gris Moenchberg "Le Moine" (13.5%) 2001: Med.gold color; powerful/fragrant very intense/floral/PG/grapey very perfumed/aromatic/intense nose; slightly off-dry huge/ powerful grapey/floral/PG slight smokey/stony mouth-filling/glycerined flavor; very long/lingering very powerful/grapey/aromatic/perfumed/PG/grapey finish; a huge PG in the Z-H mold; killer PG that'll last a long time; great price at $34.50
5. Buttonwood Santa Ynez Valley Marsanne (13.4%; www.ButtonWoodWinery.com) 2001: Light gold color; lovely waxy/figgy/appley/perfumed talc almost Viognier-like/pear fragrance nose; tart waxy/figgy/spicy/ nutmeg/appley fairly lush flavor; long floral/waxy/figgy rather lush/ripe finish; not the usual Marsanne tart/lean character; almost like a Viognier in character; lovely Marsanne at a great price. $13.00
6. Buttonwood Santa Ynez Valley Devin (60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon; 13.3%; 301 cs) 2001: Pale yellow color; bit reduced/skunky some figgy/cat-pee/herbal/SB bit perfumed/aromatic rather unusual nose; soft slight herbal/SB/waxy/figgy slight oak/pencilly unusual flavor; med.short herbal/SB/waxy/figgy slight earthy/pencilly/oak finish; not strongly SB/varietal and rather unusual. $16.00
7. Buttonwood Santa Ynez Valley Trevin (60% merlot, 30% CabFranc, 10% CS; 13.6%; 504 cs) 1999: Med.color; some perfumed/oak rather dusty/herbal/cherry/bright some toasty/charred/oak bit Bordeaux/herbal nose; tart/lean rather herbal/gritty/hard some herbal/cherry/spicy rather toasty/ charred/oak bit Chianti-like flavor; med. cherry/herbal/cola some toasty/charred/oak finish w/ light tannins; rather cold-climate Cab-like; some like a minor Cotes de Bourg or Cotes de Blaye; interesting but too pricey at $30.00.
8. Novy Mendocino RW Alder Springs Vineyard (53% Merlot, 26% CabFranc, 21% Cab Sauv; 15.0%) 2001: Black color; beautiful chocolaty very perfumey some pencilly/toasty/Fr.oak very perfumed/celery seed/ tomatoey bit cherry/cola very ripe complex very unusual nose; soft/fat very chocolaty/tomatoey/ black cherry/cola rather gritty/astringent/chewey/tannic flavor; long hard/tannic/astringent rather cherry/black cherry/cola/chocolatey/stewed tomatoes finish; a beautiful/weird/complex nose but rather hard & gritty on the palate; will be very interesting to see how this wine evolves.
9. Novy Cab Franc Alder Springs Vineyard Mendocino (15.1%) 2001: Black color; very fragrant/perfumed very black cherry/cola/chocolaty/tarry slight herbal/Cab bit earthy/mushroomy slight toasty/charred very unusual/weird complex nose; big/huge chocolaty/black cherry/cola/Dr.Pepper very tannic/hard/ astringent/drying slight herbal/earthy/mushroomy/tarry bit pencilly/charred/oak flavor; very long chocolaty/black cherry cola/Dr.Pepper hard/astringent/drying tannins w/ light toasty/charred/oak finish; lovely/exotic nose but fierce tannins on the palate; may/probably will be a great one down the road w/ age; some like a Bandol or Cahors or Languedoc Cabernet w/ such fierce tannins; pretty exotic/unusual stuff.
10. Dehlinger CS Russian River Valley (EB; 14.2%) 2000: Very dark/black color; lovely perfumed talc/chocolaty/ complex bit toasty/Fr.oak slight earthy nose; rather hard/tannic lovely chocolaty/herbal/perfumed talc/black cherry rather toasty/charred/oak slight tarry flavor; long perfumed talc/chocolaty/ herbal rather pungent/charred/toasty/oak finish; needs some age; bit low on fruit, but hard & structured for aging. $31.50
11. Domino de Tares CepasViejas Bierzo RW (13%; 100% Mencia; 60+ yr old vines; 9 mo. in Alliers & Nevers & Missouri oak; Bttld: Dec2002; Lote#003) 2001: Dark color; very strong spicy/ licorice/herbal/peppery dusty/perfumed talc/spicy/earthy nose; big/hard/tannic Languedoc-like dusty/ peppery/spicy earthy/perfumed talc some cherry/black cherry flavor; long rather hard/tannic quite spicy/peppery/dusty bit herbal/perfumed talc finish; an interesting if rough/rustic/hard/tannic red; bit on the pricey side for what it is. $26.00
12. Domino de Tares BemDiBre Bierzo RW (13.8%; 100% Mencia; 6 vnyd 60+ yrs old; new Missouri barriques + new FrenckOak; Lot#L-001; Btl#9800) 2001: Near black color; very intense mocha/ coffee/espresso/pungent/roasted/Rhonish toasty/charred/Fr.oak slome chocolaty/perfumed/peppery nose; big/intense/extracted intense toasty/charred/roasted/mocha/coffee/oaked slight peppery/chocolaty flavor; long intense charred/toasty/roasted/pungent/smokey/Fr.oak slight herbal/chocolaty/peppery/ perfumed talc finish; a bit softer & rounder & smoother than #10; much like #10 in fruit but pretty badly bludgeoned by the new oak to obliterate any fruit; classic Arpy-touted/international-style Spanish red; rather pricey. $45.00
13. Castana Solanera Vinas Viejas of Monastrell Red Yecla Wine (35% CS; EB; Non-Filtre; 14%) 2001: Dark color; strong dusty/chocolate/perfumed talc/licorice bit Rhonish/earthy some toasty/oak slight plummy/ContraCosta nose; tart/rich earthy/chocolaty/licorice/plummy/Rhonish light toasty/charred/ oak flavor; med.long bit tannic/rustic rich/plummy/chocolaty/licorice light toasty/oak finish; quite interesting wine from Spain's LakeCnty. Larry's mystery. $20.00
14. David Bruce Central Coast Petite Syrah (13.5%; www.DavidBruceWinery.com) 2002: Black color; strong plummy/earthy/licorice bit reduced/stinky/pungent low fruit slight toasty/oak nose; soft/fat/ flabby licorice/earthy/plummy/black cherry cola light toasty/oak flavor; med.short very soft/fat licorice/plummy/chocolaty/earthy hot-climate finish w/ little tannins; lots of hot-climate/EastSide Paso/plummy character; lacks acid & vitality & livliness. $19.00
15. August Briggs Lake Cnty Petite Sirah (14.5%) 2001: Black color; strong licorice/plummy/bit peppery/ black cherry strong charred/burnt/smokey/toasty/oak interesting nose; tart/spicy PS/black cherry/ peppery toasty/charred/oak flavor; med.long tart spicy/black cherry/peppery/cola/PS rather toasty/ smokey/charred/oak finish w/ some tannins; needs a yr or two; very interesting PS; pricey for a LakeCnty red. $28.00

 And some wines to go w/ the chocolate: 

1. Santa Barbara Winery Late Harvest Santa Ynez Valley ZinEssence (Lafond Vineyard; SaH: 41 Brix; RS: 22.5 Brix; 8.15%) 1987: Quite brown/murky/sherry color; intense cranberry/raspberry/Zin very perfumed/grapey/raisened bit earthy/volatile complex nose; very sweet/essence raisened/cranberry/ raspberry complex flavor; very long/very sweet raisened/cranberry/raspberry/essence complex finish; quite sweet & raisened/essence but still plenty of Zin fruit remaining. $10.50/hlf
2. Cossart, Gordon & Cia.Lda. Duo Centenary Celebration Bual Madeira (20.5%) NV: Dark brown color; terrific/complex roasted/pencilly/charred/very pungent/espresso/coffee incredibly fragrant nose; very acid bit hot/alcoholic intense roasted/Madeira/pencilly/burnt/licorice very perfumed/toffee/ complex slightlt sweet flavor; very long/lingering complex/toffee/Heath-bar/pencilly/coffee slightly sweet very acid finish; incredible complexity, beautiful Madeira. $30.00

And the chocolates, a gift from Kevin&Peggy Hubbard:

• Valrhona ChocolatNoir de Domaine Chuao Plantation Chuao, Aragua/Venzuela (65%) 2002:
• Valrhona ChocolatNoir de Domaine Ampamakia Plantation Millot, Madagascar (64%) 2002:
• Valrhona ChocolatNoir de Domaine Gran Couva Plantation Gran Couva, Trinidad 2002:
• Valrhona Caraibe Carribean Islands (66%) NV:
• Valhrona Guanaja SouthAmerica (70%) NV:

1. Godello grape: This is an indigenous variety of the Bierzo that was nearly extinct in the mid-'70's, but has been enjoying a rennasiance of late. I reminded a bit of Albarino w/ it's floral/metallic character but also had a strong green apple character and a bit more richness/ lushness than Albarino.
2. NovyCabs: I've followed Adam&Diana Lee's wines from the very start. Needless to say, their wines have become huge favorites of my group and we buy pretty much everything they offer up....except I've never tried any of their Cab-based wines...a guy's gotta have SOME standards. Local friend Bob Sherwood felt that should be remedied and gave me these two btls to try. I liked these wines....a lot. Not for current drinking, but for their very exotic character and my firm belief, maybe mistaken, that they will evolve into something special. Sometimes you just gotta believe, accept things on blind faith. And my belief in Adam & Diana's winemaking skill is such that I gotta believe. But these were certainly "different" than anything I've yet seen from Siduri/Novy yet. Not quite sure why Adam & Diana made these wines, but therein must lie a tale!!
3. AlderSprings Vineyard: I've not yet been able to track down the location of this vnyd, but I gather it must be on AlderSprings Rd, somewhere up North near the town of Laytonville, North of the primary UkiahVlly growing area. They grow, in addition to these Cab-based varieties, PinotNoir and Syrah, some of which go to Putz&Hall, and Pax Mahle. I'd love to kow more about this vnyd. It strikes me as having a great deal of potential and growing grapes that should help make Mendocino, once more, a force to be reckoned with. These both reminded me a bit of the early Milano Cabs, made by Greg Graziano and Jim Milone; which went on to develop into incredible Cabs, some of the best I've ever had from Mendocino; in addition to Jed Steele's Edmeades ones. And, not to forget, Casey's Eaglepoint Ranch ones.
4. Mencia Grape: The red varietal that is responsible for the great Bierzos. It is usually described as an indigenous variety to the area and "thought" to be related to Bordeaux's CabernetFranc. One source I stumbled across stated there are actually two varieties there that are labeled Mencia; one that produces light/fragrant/perfumed reds (doesn't sound like CabFranc to me) and another, thought to be actually CabFranc, that produces heavy/intense/tannic reds and a variety that was introduced late in the 19'th century (which WAS before my time!!). My guess, in absence of any definitive DNA data, is the later take is truth. There was probably some indigenous red that made these thin/lean/perfumed/wussy reds. And after phylloxera hit Bordeaux and many of those folks moved South to phylloxera-free (at that time) Spain and took along CabFranc & propogated it there. None of the 8-10 Bierzos I've had have struck me as particularly "light & perfumed". They've all resembled more, to me, CabFranc, than anything. Probably the folks up there in Bierzo are not sure of the truth, either.
5. Briggs PS: This is a producer whose Pinots I've had in the past and rather liked. I was intrigued by this wine as being a good producer but coming from LakeCnty grapes; a region that gets no respect, and probably rightfully so. LakeCnty has always struck me as an area that could produce great wines if they set their mind to it. One Mendocino grower has described to me as, when he gets discouraged & down in the dumps at how things are doing there in Mendocino; all he has to do is drive over to LakeCnty so he can see how bad things really could be. Maybe someday we WILL Have some great wines from LakeCnty. This PS is certainly a step in the right direction.
6. Santa Barbara Winery ZinEssence: This has always been one of my favorite ZinEssences produced in Calif. This one, IIRC, is their first Zin Essence. Still have a few more remaining. The Zin grapes come from the LaFond Vineyard way out on the western (cold) end of the Santa Rita Hills. Nobody, but NOBODY, in their right mind would plant Zinfandel in this area. It's stupid...you can't ripen Zinfandel out there. Somehow, SBWnry is not only able to do it; but does it fairly frequently. I assume they just leave the grapes out there on the vine, dessicating away, until they're like raisens. Yet the wines, when young, have some red color to them. And this heaps of cranberry syrup character to them. The brown/murky color of this '87 made me suspect them to be dead & gone. Not so...they've held up remarkably well. Santa Barbara Winery makes two wines (among others) that they don't get the respect they deserve for; the regular Zin, the Zin Essence, and their botrytis SauvignonBlanc. Worth tracking down.

TomHill