by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

On Saturday of the Taos Winter Wine Festival, Larry&Laura hosted at their cabin a dinner in honor of Mike Etzel (Beaux Freres). For once, I didn't have to provide the famous guest, Larry was able to make the invitation on his own. In addition to Michael&Barbara Ogg (and lovable dog, Harry); joining us was the rest of Mike's entourage: brother Dave Etzel, and long-time friends Bill Kopajtic, and Mark ??. Laura's grub was, as usual, outstanding. The wines wern't too shabby either: 

1. Nigl Gruner Veltliner Kremser Freiheit (11.5%) 2001: Very fragrant/flowery/steely/slatey nose; very tart/lean/hard very flowery/spicy steely flavor; very long/intense lean/hard lush/flowery quite spicy finish; rather rich wine but a very hard/steely character; will age forever.
2. Beaux Freres Yamhill Cnty Beaux Freres Vineyard Pinot Noir (13.5%) 1995: Med.dark color; very fragrant/ pencilly bright cherry/spicy some complex nose; tart/lean very spicy/cherry/black cherry elegant pencilly/oak flavor; long/lingering bit complex rather pencilly bit Burgundian bright cherry finish w/ some tannins; still needs age & seems a bit tight yet.
3. Marcel Deiss Bergheim Vendanges Tardive GWT 1994: Beautiful/fragrant complex/spicy/lychee/GWT cinammon/nutmeg nose; slightly sweet tart/acid very rich/spicy/nutmeg/lychee flavor w/ very  long/lingering fairly complex finish; stunning GWT and will live a good many more yrs.
4. Guigal Cote-Rotie 1983: Rather smokey/roasted bit metallic sweaty leather/horse collar bit earthy fairly complex/mature nose; smooth/soft elegant/complex/roasted/smokey slight earthy some leathery/horsecollar flavor; long/elegant complex smokey/roasted smooth finish; a bit drying out but great example of a fully mature C-R; lovely elegant complex wine.
5. Santa Cruz Mtn Vineyard Calif Pinot Noir (14.6%) 1978/1979: Rather browning/murky color; slight menthol/ perfumed/cinammon rather oxidized/maderized/tired nose; rather strong pencilly/toasty/pungent/ charred oak dried out/astringent bit tomatoey rather oxidized flavor; a few interesting things have survived but pretty much DOA.
6. Beaux Freres Yamhill Cnty Beaux Freres Vineyard Pinot Noir (13.5%) 1996: Lovely perfumed/fragrant/pencilly/ Burgundian complex some black cherry/smokey nose; tart fairly lush smooth fragrant/complex quite Burgundian/black cherry/smokey flavor; very long/round/smooth black cherry pencilly/Burgundian finish w/ some tannins; still a few yrs ahead of it but really tasting great now.
7. Beaux Freres Yamhill Cnty Beaux Freres Vineyard Pinot Noir (13.5%) 1994: Lovely black cherry/Pinot rather  toasty/oak/vanilla/cognac very perfumed/fragrant nose; bit closed more black cherry some toasty/ vanilla very spicy bit tannic flavor; very long vanilla/toasty/oak strong black cherry finish w/ some tannins; still in great shape & going strong, a bit hard/tight still but very fragrant/ spicy in character.
8. Marcassin Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 1997: Very dark color; strong toasty/smokey/charred loads of  Fr.oak pungent chocolaty/black cherry nose; rich hard/tannic loads of toasty/charred/Fr.oak strong/rich/mouthfilling black cherry/chocolaty flavor w/ fairly tannic finish; still quite a young Pinot; a bit rough & clunky beside the BeauxFreres.
9. Georges Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1990: Med.color; rather funky/mushroomy/earthy/animal slight floral/ violets some pencilly/toasty complex classic Burgundian nose; bit tart smooth earthy/mushroomy some pencilly/toasty light fruit/violets complex Burgundian flavor; pretty much ready to drink.
10. Chateau Rieussec 1990: Med.gold color; beautiful very fragrant/botrytis/peachy rather strong butterscotchy/caramel fairly complex bit volatile nose; tart bit austere/lean lovely peachy/ botrytis caramel/butterscotchy some oak flavor; a lovely Sauternes starting to show some complexity but still a ways to go.
11. Sandeman Oporto 1977: Med.color; very dusty low fruit quite alcoholic/porty/hot nose; some grapey very spirity/alcoholic/porty flavor; seems not to be developing so well w/ lots of alcoholic character.

1. BeauxFreres: This trio was brought to dinner by Mike. All three were, I thought, terrific examples of Oregon Pinot; all three very distinct and individual. My preference was for the '96 as being a bit richer and a bit more Burgundian. All three still have a good many years  ahead of them I feel. Tasting Mike's new Pinots at the GrandTasting ('00 and '01), I sensed there was a change of style taking place in his wines. A backing off on the oak and a bit more of a tarter/leaner style of Pinot. It'll be fun to watch their evolution. Terrific wines from a terrific  winemaker.
2. SantaCruzMtn Pinot: This was the first vintage of Ken Burnap's Pinot. It was a wine that got a great many raves on its release for its strong Burgundian character. A very rare wine, this was the only btl I've ever had. Obviously shouldn't have waited so long; pretty much dead. Pity.

TomHill