by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

Went out to TheCite for the Rhone Ranger tasting (4/26/03) this year, first time I'd been to this event, thoughh I've done 4-5 ZAP tastings over the yrs. Same venue, same format; but all Rhone-style wines. Don't get NO BETTER than that.

The event was extremely well organized; reasonable sized crowds so you had little trouble getting your pours, time to chat a bit with the winemakers, and get your tasting done. I guess the only thing I would suggest is about twice the number of stand-up tables so that I can take notes w/o having to walk quite as far. But that's just a minor quibble.

Saw lots of old.... er... long-time friends there, both winemakers and Rhone fanatics. Could have actually spent the whole time talking and not tasted one wine had I chosen to.

I wasn't able to do quite as brisk a pace as I'd have liked to... too much time talking I guess. So only managed to do about 70 wines, a pretty pathetic performance. Should have trained much harder, I dare say. Because of the difficulty of taking notes in large- format venues like this (I tried using a small portable digital voice recording device, but found I was so self-concious standing there like a geeky wine nut, I couldn't think of what to say), my descriptions are fairly brief. Sorry, best I could do. The wineries are listed in alphabetic order. Those wines I were particularly taken by, I've denoted by * or **.

1. Alban Vineyards (Arroyo Grande): * Roussanne Estate 2000: Very toasty oak, lots of rich floral/butterscotchy fruit, tart * Viognier 2001: Very spicy/pear/fragrant w/ lots of toasty Fr.oak, tart & spicy
2. Andrew Rich Wines (WA): ** Columbia Valley Syrah 2001: Very smokey/pungent/dusty rather peppery/gamey; complex & rich
3. Black Rock Wineworks (Pasadena): ** Cougar's Leap LakeCnty PetiteSirah 2001: Very dark color; terrific very spicy/black pepper/ some toasty/pungent/oak; somewhat tannic & needs age; one of the better PSs here.
4. Capay Valley Vineyards (Brooks, CA): Viognier 2002: Very bright pear/Viognier fruit, bit lean/metallic on palate Syrah 1999: Lots of toasty/pungent/charred oak w/ some peppery/blackberry; good for the $17
5. Cedarville Vnyd (FairPlay, CA): Estate Viognier 2001: Fragrant pear/Viognier nose; tart/lean very elegant/sleek on palate *EstateSyrah 2001: Very bright/fragrant/spicy blackberry/raspberry fruit *PetiteSirah 2001: Earthy/peppery fragrant/floral very perfumed for PS; spicy & racy
6. Diablo Grande Vineyards (Patterson, CA): Estate Syrah 2000: Strong grapey/plummy nose; soft/fat/grapey/plummy bit earthy flavor
7. Domaine Terre Rouge (Fiddletown, CA): *Viognier 2001: Intense very perfumed/fragrant/peachy/Viognier nose; soft/rich/lush very strong floral/pear/Viognier flavor; a classic DollyParton Viognier ***AscentSyrah 2000: Black color; huge/intense pungent/smokey/roasted/espresso intense blackberry/ peppery nose; big/huge/tannic intense blackberry/boysenberry/peppery rather pungent/ toasty/roasted/espresso flavor; maybe even better than the '99; killer Syrah.
8. Eaglepoint Ranch (Ukiah, CA): **Grenache 2002: Med.color; terrific/fragrant/perfumed very juicy/strawberry/framboise nose; tart very spicy intense/juicy/strawberry/framboise; loads of juicy Grenache fruit; one of the best Grenaches here; terrific perfume.
9. Firefall Vineyards (FairPlat, CA): *Reserve Syrah 2000: Very dark color; some blackberry/earthy rather smokey/pungent/toasty/oak nose; rich pungent/toasty/smokey/oak rather blackberry/Syrah flavor *LoneMeadow Syrah 2000: Dark color; very strong cracked black pepper pungent/blackberry; loads of cracked black pepper; great value at $16.
10. Foxen (SantaMaria, CA): Rothberg Vnyd Viognier 2001: Shy pear/Viognier nose; soft/fat light pear/Viognier flavor; a bit on the plain/simple side
11. G. Graham Wines (LowerLake, CA): *Napa Valley Syrah 2000: Very dark color; big/ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah bit toasty/pungent/ Fr.oak flavor; another G.Graham winner.
12. Hamel Wines (Healdsburg, CA): *Sonoma Cnty Syrah 2000: Dark color; clean/spicy rich/blackberry/Syrah nose; rich/blackberry/ Syrah some gamey/pungent Syrah flavor; another Hamel winner.
13. Holly's Hill Vineyards (Placerville, CA): White Rhone Blend (50% Roussanne/Viognier) 2002: Shy slight floral/earthy nose; soft/fat slight floral/pear flavor; bit simple.
14. Iron Mtn Vnyd (Penn Valley, CA): **Viognier 2002: Loads of powerful pear/peach/Viognier slight minerally nose; soft/rich/ powerful floral/pear/peach/Viognier flavor; heaps and heaps of Viognier fruit.
15. JC Cellars (Alameda, CA): *Ventana Vnyd Monterey Syrah 2001: Very spicy/boysenberry/blackberry/Syrah slight herbal bit toasty/pungent character. *RockpileVnyd Syrah 2001: Pungent/toasty/spicy blackberry/Syrah character; lots of spiciness *CaldwellVnyd NapaValley Syrah 2001: Very pungent/smokey/Fr.oak intense blackberry/Syrah flavor **PhilaryVnyd NapaValley Syrah 2001: Black color; intense toasty/pungent/roasted/smokey intense blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry quite spicy/gamey; terrific extracted Syrah.
16. Jade Mtn (Napa, CA): *Old Vines Mourvedre 2001: Dark color; very juicy/black cherry/plummy loads of bright fruit *ParasVnyd Mt.Veeder Syrah 1999: Dark color; strong toasty/pungent/charred/oak rather dusty/ gamey blackberry/Syrah structured character
17. Lava Cap Winery (Placerville, CA): **El Dorado Reserve Viognier 2001: Very spicy/perfumed/fragrant/apple pie loads of spicy/pear/ Viognier fruit; great acidity & balance; one of the better ElDorado Viogniers I've had.
18. Longboard Vineyards (Healdsburg, CA): Russian River Valley Syrah 2001: Bright/juicy/blackberry/ripe nose; tart/attractive juicy/Syrah/ blackberry slight earthy/pungent flavor; bit pricey at $29.
19. Longfellow Wine Company (Napa, CA): **Syrah 2001: Very dark color; bright/spicy/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah rather licorice/ pungent cery spicy/gamey/meaty flavor; worth the $29
20. Lost Canyon Winery (Oakland, CA): *Stagecoach Vnyd Sonoma Coast Syrah 2001: Dark color; very spicy/gamey/peppery blackberry/Syrah rather pungent/smokey structured; very interesting cold-climate Syrah; worth the $33. Calif Syrah 2001: AlexanderValley + Livermore fruit: rather bright/juicy/blackberry/raspberry fruit; pricey at $29
21. McCrea Cellars (Seattle, WA): Yakima Valley Viognier 2001: soft/round/lush bit earthy low-key pear/Viognier character **CuveeOrleans Syrah (7% Viognier) 2000: Bit more fragrant/perfumey very plummy/blackberry rather smokey/gamey/roasted character **Boushey GrandCote Syrah 2001: Black color; rather licorice/gamey/pungent/roasted/toasty intense blackberry/blueberry/boysenberry peppery/spicy/gamey structured **Ciel du Cheval RedMtn Syrah 2001: Much the same, bit bigger & extracted; terrific complex quite spicy Syrah
22. Novy Family Winery (Santa Rosa, CA): **Garys' Vnyd Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah 2001: Black color; very spicy/peppery/herbal/pungent/ smokey strong blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah some toasty/oak; loads of spicy Syrah fruit *Garys'Vnyd Syrah 2000: Much the same but bit softer/rounder/lusher on the palate *NapaValley Syrah 2001: Strong black cherry/blackberry bright fruit *DryCreekValley Syrah 2001: More spicy/blackberry/boysenberry/cola/Syrah bit more peppery/gamey character; loads of cola/blackberry/Syrah fruit.
23. Pax Wine Cellars (Santa Rosa, CA): **Castelli-Knight Ranch Russian River Valley Syrah 2002: Black color; intense blackberry/boysenberry/ Syrah very lush mouthfilling quite spicy/gamey bit pungent/toasty/Fr.oak/roasted **Castelli-KnightRanch Russian River Valley Syrah 2001: Bit softer/rounder same intense fruit
24. Qupe Wine Cellars (Santa Maria, CA): Marsanne 2002: 24% Roussanne: Strong stoney/earthy/appley some floral/fragrant Roussanne; the Roussanne adds a lot more fragrance to this than Bob's previous ones. Ibarra-YoungVnyd Viognier 2002: Fragrant pear/Viognier slight stoney elegant/clean Viognier *Rancho Arroyo Grande Vnyd Syrah 2001: Dark color; classic blackberry/Syrah/plummy light toasty/ oak flavor PurismaMtnVnyd Syrah 2001: Lighter bright/spicy/plummy/blackberry fruit *Ethan's Syrah 2001: Big/ripe juicy/blackberry/boysenberry light pungent/oak character; bigger/riper more juicy than Bob's; from Bob's son Ethan; very nicely done first effort
25. Rancho Arroyo Grande Winery (Arroyo Grande, CA): *Arroyo GrandeValley Syrah 2001: Very dark; strong pungent/toasty/smokey/roasted strong peppery/ blackberry/boysenberry Syrah; lots of spicy/pungent/peppery character
26. River Run Vintners (Watsonville, CA): VentanaVnyd Monterey Syrah 1997: Very volatile/fumey/hot nose; hot/volatile/herbal/vegetal very weird flavor; not a strong case for Monterey Syrah. ClautiereVnyd PasoRobles Syrah 1998: Much better; pleasant grapey/blackberry/Syrah/plummy slight toasty/oak flavor
27. Rocca Family Vineyards (Yountville, CA): Rocca Family Vineyards Syrah 1999: Strong toasty/smokey/charred/Fr.oak some blackberry/Syrah soft flavor; rather pricey at $38.00 H.Gray BadBoyRed Blend 2000: Rather spicy/grapey some pungent/toasty character; fairly priced at $18.
28. Saddleback Cellars (Oakville, CA): CentralCoast Syrah 2001: Elegant very spicy/fragrant light toasty/oak flavor; pleasant and drinkable.
29. Sawtooth Winery (Nampa, IDAHO): Syrah 2001: tart/pungent smokey/earthy almost Languedoc-like rather gritty tannins; interesting bit rustic/earthy red.
30. Silvan Ridge (Eugene, OR): DelRioVnyd OR Syrah 2000: Fragrant/perfumey/cherry almost Pinot-like some pencilly/oak nose; tart/dusty/earthy spicy/licorice/smokey/pencilly bit rustic flavor; very interesting
31. Spencer Roloson Winery (SanFrancisco, CA): Skellinger Vnyd Viognier 2001: Tart/lean/elegant some pear/earthy/Viognier character Sueno Vnyd Syrah 1999: Smokey/pungent green olive/mushroomy/herbal character; rather strange but interesting Syrah.
32. St. Amant Winery (Lodi, CA): Amador Cnty Syrah 1999: Strong toasty/gamey/pungent/espresso some blackberry/Syrah/briary character; very good Syrah for the price $18.
33. Steele Wines (Kelseyville, CA): Parmalee-Hill Vnyd Sonoma Syrah 1999: Some smokey/gamey/pungent light blackberry/Syrah; a lighter almost Pinot-style Syrah LakeCnty Syrah 2000: Rather spicy/grapey/raspberry/cherry character; very attractive/lighter/ drinkable Syrah and fairly priced at $18.
34. Swanson Vineyards (Rutherford, CA): Napa Valley Syrah 1992: Slight bretty/funky/Rhonish very perfumed/cherry some complex nose; bit dried-out lighht cherry/juicy on the palate SalonSelection Syrah 1999: Strong Fr.oaked/pencilly/charred/toasty/buttery/pungent some strawberry/black cherry/blackberry/Syrah character; pretty pricey at $70.
35. Truchard Vineyards (Napa, CA): *Napa Valley Roussanne 2001: Very spicy/apple pie/floral/ripe some toasty/oak nose; tart very spicy/floral flavor; very interesting Roussanne
36. Unti Vineyards (Healdsburg, CA): DryCreek Estate Syrah 2001: Attractive very spicy/raspberry/blackberry light pungent/oak flavor; a very pretty DCV almost Zin-like Syrah.
37. Meador Estate (Soledad, CA): *Meador Monterey Syrah 2000: Very dark color; interesting herbal/green pepper/black olive smokey some tarry/pungent/licorice quite gamey character; rather eccentric but very interesting Syrah
38. Viento (McMinnville, OR): Seven Hills Vnyd Syrah 2001: Bright cherry/spicy/fragrant/perfumed elegant Pinot-like *LonesomeSpringRanch Viognierr 2001: Very ripe/juicy/grapey lighht floral/pear/honeysuckle character; more like Roussanne than Viognier; very interesting Cuvee Provencal (84% GrenacheNoir, 16% Syrah) 2001: Fragrant strawberry/Grenache bright fruit nose; soft pungent/toasty rich strawberry flavor; very nice blend for $20.
39. Villa Helena Winery (St.Helena, CA): Napa Valley Viognier 2001: Oaky/earthy some spicy/juicy/pear rather old-style Calif Viognier NapaValley Syrah 2001: Dusty/earthy bit funky/walnutty low fruit nose; very tart/acid rather funky/walnutty/earthy/dusty flavor; very strange Syrah.
40. Wellington Vineyards (GlenEllen, CA): *Russian River Valley Roussanne 2001: Very spicy/juicy quite floral/honeysuckle lots of fruit TimbervineRanch Viognier 2001: Very light slight earthy/pear nose; tart/spicy slight earthy flavor; not a lot of fragrance or Viognier fruit.

So, that's all she wrote. Coulda done more wines if'n I'd trained harder.

1. Conspicuous in their absence above are Steve Edmunds wines. Since they're all old friends, and I'd tasted some the Friday before at dinner; I didn't stop by Steve's table. But I heard lots of good words about them. Same story w/ Ridge and Rosenblum.
2. Three wineries stood out in my mind for the extraordinary quality of all their wines being poured: PaxWineCellars, JC Cellars, Novy Family, and McCreaCellars. Every wine of theirs I tried were absolutely first rate.
3. Probably the best wine of the whole event for me was Bill Easton's just released 2000 Ascent. Most Amador Syrahs taste like Amador wines. This one has more Northern Rhone character than any of the others I tried. Stunning Syrah and may even be worth the $75.
4. The cheap date wine: Casey Hartlip's EaglepointRanch Grenache 2002 barrel sample. Just incredible juicy Grenache fruit, like getting down and sticking your nose in a patch of alpine strawberries and rooting around. Hope it goes to btl soon to preserve all that fruit.
5. WashingtonState Syrahs: They're making some absolutely terrific Syrahs up there. All the McCrea's were dynamite; the AndrewRich was terrific.
6. New finds: AndrewRich, IronMtn, Longfellow, LostCanyon, RanchoArroyo Grande.
7. They don't get the respect they deserve: Cedarville, Firefall Vineyards, G.Graham.
8. Obviously, there were a bunch of wineries I'd have liked to try, but didn't get around to.