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                   by 
                    Tom Hill 
                     
                    A 
                    self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico 
                    and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National 
                    Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale 
                    code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates 
                    locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, 
                    and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, 
                    such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and 
                    ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport 
                    fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, 
                    backpacking, mountain climbing.  
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                    New Zinfandels - April 16, 2003 
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                    -  Novy 
                      Zinfandel Russian River Valley Carlisle Vineyard (16.0%) 
                      2001: Dark 
                      color; intense blackberry/boysenberry/ black cherry some 
                      smokey/toasty/Fr.oak very spicy terrific nose; tart bit 
                      alcoholic very intense blackberry/black cherry/cola very 
                      spicy light toasty/smokey/oak flavor; very long/lingering 
                      intense black cherry/blackberry/cola some toasty/oak slight 
                      alcoholic finish w/ some tannins; a stunning Zinfandel on 
                      Adam's first one. Tastes like a Zinfandel made by a Pinot 
                      producer.
 
                    -  Carlisle 
                      Russian River Valley Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard (16.2%; 
                      Zinfandel + PS / Alicante Bouschet/ GrandNoir/ Carignane; 
                      410 cs; planted in 1927 by Alcide Peletti; 1.25 tons/acre) 
                      2001: Dark color; intense peppery/boysenberry/blackberry/cola/framboise 
                      very intense fruit light smokey/pencilly/oak very lush nose; 
                      tart very intense blackberry/boysenberry/framboise very 
                      spicy/peppery light milky/ pencilly/oak flavor; very long/lingering 
                      tart intense blackberry/boysenberry/peppery finish w/ some 
                      tannins; needs a few yrs; a killer Zinfandel; tastes like 
                      a Zinfandel made by a Syrah producer.
 
                    -  Carlisle 
                      Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (15.8%; 237 cs) 1998: Med.dark 
                      color; very fragrant/perfumed very spicy/ aromatic rather 
                      bright/Zinberry slight dusty light pencilly/oak some complex 
                      nose; tart very spicy cranberry/Zinberry bit lean some pencilly/oak 
                      complex flavor; very long very spicy Zinberry/ cranberry 
                      biy dusty light pencilly/oak finish w/ light tannins; lots 
                      of bright DCV fruit and lots of spiciness; really tasting 
                      nice right now.
 
                    -  Carlisle 
                      Sonoma Cnty Zinfandel (15.9%; Carlisle Vineyard + DryCreek  
                      Vineyards; Zinfandel + dryCreek Carignane & Grenache; 
                      230 cs) 2001: Very dark color; some blackberry/spicy/black 
                      cherry bit closed some tobaccoy/smokey/oak lovely nose; 
                      softer bright cherry/black cherry/blackberry spicy bit earthy/ 
                      dusty flavor; med.long spicy cherry/berry/bright some spicy/peppery 
                      light oak/smokey finish w/ light tannins; the Carignan/cherry 
                      character seems to show thru; lovely drink Zinfandel for 
                      the near term.
 
                    -  Carlisle 
                      Russian River Valley Zinfandel Tom Feeney Ranch (16.6%;  
                      Vineyard planted in 1926; Zinfandel + PS/ AlicanteBouschet/GrandNoir 
                      de la Calmette; 350 cs) 2001: Dark color; some minty/eucalyptus 
                      very spicy/blackberry/raspberry/Zinfandel more bright/DCV-like 
                      some Am.oak/pencilly quite spicy nose; tart some buttery/Am.oak 
                      slight eucalyptus bright/spicy/Zinberry/blackberry bit alcoholic 
                      flavor; very long/lingering buttery/Am.oak slight eucalyptus/minty 
                      very spicy raspberry/blackberry finish w/ some tannins; 
                      beautiful spicy Zinfandel more DCV in character than RRV; 
                      loads of bright fruit.
 
                    -  Carlisle 
                      Russian River Valley Zinfandel Gum Tree Ranch (16.2%; century 
                      old vines; last vintage/gone to real estate developers; 
                      Zinfandel + PS/GrandNoir de la Calmette; 1 ton/acre; 140 
                      cs) 2001: Very dark color; strong minty/eucalyptus/menthol 
                      huge blackberry/peppery/framboise complex nose; huge/rich 
                      eucalyptus/menthol intense blackberry/boysenberry/framboise 
                      very spicy/peppery light oak flavor; very long/lingering 
                      big/blackberry/boysenberry/Zinfandel rather eucalyptus/menthol 
                      very spicy/peppery finish w/ some tannins; needs a few yrs; 
                      a classic RRV Zinfandel w/ interesting eucalyptus character; 
                      the eucalyptus seems more subdued than last yrs version; 
                      killer Zinfandel.
 
                    -  Rockledge 
                      Napa Valley Zinfandel (14.5%) Growers: Peter&Linda Snowden, 
                      Winemaker: John Gibson 1999: Dark color; spicy blackberry/boysenberry 
                      slight framboise rather oaked slight earthy nose; tart some 
                      toasty/pungent/oak bright raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel 
                      bit buttery flavor; med. bright/ raspberry/blackberry some 
                      buttery/oak finish w/ light tannins; nice well-made mainstream 
                      Napa Valley Zinfandel at a good price.
 
                    -  Carneros 
                      Creek Wnry Amador Cnty Late Picked Zinfandel Esola Vineyard 
                      (16.7%; RS: 0.6%) 1976: Dark color w/ little browning;slight/some 
                      corked/TCA that blows off to an intense boysenberry/ripe/chocolaty/licorice/ 
                      pungent some tobaccoy/smokey/oak very complex no raisened 
                      or pruney nose; off-dry very ripe chocolaty/licorice/blackberry/boysenberry 
                      bit raisened/overripe tarry/pungent/tobaccoy complex flavor; 
                      very long bit astringent/dried out strong blackberry/boysenberry 
                      rather tobaccoy/pungent/ oak some tarry/complex finish; 
                      drying out and a bit aged, but in amazing shape for a LateHrvst 
                      '76 and little raisened/pruney character showing.
 
                    -  Turley 
                      Calif Zinfandel Juvenile (15.3%; Young vines: Hayne/Moore/Duarte/Pesenti 
                      + Turley Estate) 2001: Dark color; some milky/oaked 
                      rich chocolaty/blackberry/Zinfandel slight earthy/mushroomy 
                      rather grapey/cola/lush nose; soft/lush chocolaty/raspberry/blackberry 
                      bit earthy some pungent/toasty oak flavor; soft/lush/grapey 
                      bit chocolaty lush/raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel light 
                      toasty/oak finish w/ light tannins; soft/lush/grapey Zinfandel.
 
                    -  Turley 
                      Calif Zinfandel OldVines (15.5%) 2001: Very dark color; 
                      more classic blackberry/raspberry/Zinfandel some dusty/old 
                      vines/earthy very attractive nose; rich/ripe blackberry/boysenberry 
                      very spicy light pungent/oak some dusty very attractive 
                      flavor; long dusty blackberry/raspberry/lush/Zinfandel light 
                      toasty/oak finish w/ light tannins; very delicious/tasty 
                      blackberry Zinfandel w/ good dusty/old vine character.
 
                    -  Turley 
                      ContraCostaCnty Zinfandel Duarte (15.0%; 105 yr old own 
                      rooted vines) 2001: Very dark color; very strong plummy/blackberry/chocolaty 
                      earthy/mushroomy/dusty/old vines complex nose; soft/ripe 
                      plummy/blackberry/chocolaty dusty/mushroomy/earthy light 
                      toasty/oak flavor; long chocolaty/plummy/ blackberry/Zinfandel 
                      some earthy/dusty finish w/ light tannins; lots of ContraCosta/plummy 
                      character; very tasty/drinkable Zinfandel.
 
                    -  Turley 
                      Atlas Peak Zinfandel Mead Ranch (16.0%) 2001: Very dark 
                      color; bright raspberry/blackberry very spicy/cloves/licorice 
                      some toasty/oak lovely complex bit dusty nose; tart very 
                      spicy/cloves strong raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel some 
                      pungent/smokey/toasty/oak flavor; very long/lingering very 
                      spicy/cloves strong raspberry/blackberry/Zinfandel light 
                      pungent/oak complex finish w/ some tannins; can use a yr 
                      or two; beautiful/lovely very spicy Zinfandel; my favorite 
                      of these Turleys.
 
                    -  Turley 
                      Napa Valley Zinfandel Turley Estate (15.6%) 2001: Dark 
                      color; intense blackberry/licorice/chocolaty/ boysenberry 
                      very perfumed/loads of fruit nose; tart spicy raspberry/blackberry/black 
                      cherry/cola some pungent/toasty/oak flavor; long spicy chocolaty/licorice/boysenberry/Zinfandel/blackberry 
                      finish w/ light tannins; terrific/intense nose but doesn't 
                      quite deliver on the palate.
 
                    -  Turley 
                      Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Grist Vineyard (15.0%) 2001: 
                      Dark color; rather dusty/old vines beautiful/ripe/ raspberry/blackberry/Zinberry 
                      some toasty/pungent/smokey/oak complex nose; tart very spicy/bright/ 
                      Zinberry/raspberry/blackberry light toasty/oak finish w/ 
                      some tannins; very classic DCV Zinfandel w/ lots of spicy 
                      fruit; lovely wine.
 
                    -  Salvatore 
                      Molettieri Turasi Vigne Cinque Querc (13%) 1997: Dark 
                      color; very dusty/earthy/walnutty smokey/funky/licorice 
                      bit goat pen/barnyardy/hot-climate strange nose; tart/tannic 
                      earthy/pungent/ walnutty rather Italian/hot-climate/funky/goat 
                      pen some blackberry flavor; med. funky/barnyardy earthy/dusty/walnutty 
                      finish w/ some tannins; lots of hot-climate/funky character 
                      but an interesting wine.
 
                    -  Elyse 
                      Napa Valley Petite Sirah Barrel Select (12.9%) 1994: Very 
                      dark color; very ripe bit alcoholic cranberry/boysenberry 
                      rather pencilly/smokey/oak some complex/tobaccoy nose; soft/smooth 
                      spicy milky/Am.oak peppery/cranberry some aged/tobaccoy/PS 
                      flavor; long peppery/cranberry some pencilly/ tobaccoy/Am.oak 
                      finish w/ light tannins; a bit further along than I'd have 
                      thought for such a black/extracted PS in its youth; very 
                      attractive mature PS.
 
                    -  Ridge 
                      Late Picked Pagani Ranch (80% Zinfandel, 15% Mataro, 5% 
                      PS; SaH: 28%; RS: 0.1%; 15.8%) 1992: Med. dark color; 
                      very lush blackberry/licorice/boysenberry/licorice some 
                      milky/Am.oak bit complex nose; rich blackberry/licorice/boysenberry 
                      bit alcoholic milky/Am.oak slight dusty/earthy flavor; med. 
                      long dusty/old vine milky/Am.oak strong blackberry/licorice/pungent 
                      flavor w/ some tannins; seems to be moving right along; 
                      classic Pagani peppery character; lovely mature Zinfandel.
 
                   
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                         And 
                          today's bloody pulpit contains the following nuggets 
                          of wisdom:   
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                    -  
                      GrandNoir de la Calmette: Cross of PetiteBouschet (Aramon 
                      X Teinturier du Cher) X Aramon; named by Henri Bouschet 
                      after his breeding station. "...he suspected its true worth 
                      and was unwilling to have the family name associated with 
                      it... The sins of its parents indeed visited on this infelicitous 
                      crossing... Second most planted grape in Cognac... Teinturier, 
                      even worse than AlicanteBouschet"
 
                    -  
                      Carlisle Vineyard: This is the  Vineyard made famous 
                      as the Peletti  Vineyard by the Cecil Deloach. Cecil 
                      harvested the cuttings from this  Vineyard, propagated 
                      them onto a new Vineyard, trademarked the name, so the Peletti  
                      Vineyard no longer is. When Mike&Kendall bought the 
                      Peletti  Vineyard, there was a few more yrs to run 
                      on the DeLoach contract, which ran out w/ the 2000 Vineyard. 
                      So this 2001 is the first Zinfandel Mike made from his own 
                      grapes. It's clear that this is, indeed, a very special 
                      Zinfandel Vineyard from these first two wines. It was interesting 
                      to taste these two wines side-by-side. Both are classic 
                      RRV Zinfandel, with an intense peppery/blackberry character 
                      to them. The glib response would be to say the Novy tastes 
                      like a Zinfandel made by a Pinot producer, but LarryA. would 
                      raise bloody hell with me. But, in fact, I DID find more 
                      of a black cherry character and a bit more toasty oak in 
                      Adam's version. Mike's had a bit more of the peppery character 
                      to it I associate w/ RRV Zinfandel. I found a bit more alcoholic 
                      heat in the Novy, but they both carry their high alcohols 
                      very gracefully. Both are absolutely stunning Zins and it 
                      will be fun to follow both of their evolutions.
 
                    -  
                      SonomaCnty 2001: This is Mike Officer's VW-grade Zinfandel, 
                      made for more immediate drinking and a more attractive price. 
                      But "bottom of the line" Zinfandel it ain't. It is, in fact, 
                      better than most other winery's Zins that sell for much 
                      greater bucks. Really nice drink stuff.
 
                    -  
                      CarnerosCreek Zinfandel '76: This was a mystery wine brought 
                      by Blair from his cellar. From the ullage (mid-shoulder) 
                      and the decrepit cork (Frank Mahoney had a lot of problems 
                      thru the '74-'76 vintage with corks and many of his wines 
                      were "weepers" and ullaged badly) (this cork just slid right 
                      out very easily; not well-sealed); I knew it must be a fairly 
                      old wine. From the still-dark color; I guessed a Zinfandel 
                      from the mid-late '80's. The wine was still very much alive 
                      and still had plenty of fruit left in it. The wine was a 
                      bit strange. Everyone immediately got a corked character 
                      to it. When I finally poured my glass and tried it, I found 
                      a bit of an old-wine mustiness to it and a small but noticible 
                      TCA component. But, as I swirled and tasted, the TCA seemed 
                      to diminish quite a bit and I could taste the wine underneath 
                      it. Then, when I went back & tried it again at the end 
                      of the tasting, the corkiness was still very much there. 
                      I don't usually notice this kind of behavior with TCA. Some 
                      people thought the wine had a raging TCA to it, others thought 
                      it not so bad and found it to go away with breathing in 
                      the glass.
 
                    -  
                      CarlisleZins: I've followed Mike Officer's Zins from the 
                      very start, back in his home winemaker days. There are some 
                      of the best Zins being made in Calif these days I feel. 
                      They have big fruit and big alcohol, but yet seem in balance 
                      and not overripe at all. Terrific Zins.
 
                    -  
                      TurleyZins: I've followed the Turley Zins from the very 
                      start, back in the Helen Turley days. They were, and continue 
                      to be, some of my favorite Zins. Despite their high alcohol 
                      levels, which I don't find objectionable, they seldom show 
                      that overripe character that such ripe grapes can give to 
                      a wine. I think that will be harder to do w/ their Paso/Pesenti 
                      Zinfandel. The wines from HelenTurley's era gave them the 
                      reputation for huge/extracted/oaky Zins. Under Ehren Jordan's 
                      care, the wines have seemed to me to be more balanced and 
                      restrained. Furthermore, all the Zins are distinctive and 
                      representative of their terroir, something that can't always 
                      be said of some wineries who produce multiple Vineyard-designate 
                      Zins.
 
                   
                  TomHill 
                  
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              Copyright 
              © 1996 - 2006, Tom Hill - All rights reserved  
              No original material may be reproduced without written consent 
              Mail & Comments 
              - Grape-Nutz 
               
            
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